The neon fish It is one of the most demanded fish in the aquarium for its impressive color. Its scientific name is Paracheirodon innesi and is one of the most curious fish in existence. In this article, we'll learn more about this fish, including all its characteristics and the care it needs to keep it healthy. If you're looking for learn more about this fish To add it to your fish tank, don't miss this post and keep reading 
Would you like know everything about the neon fish?
Key features
This fish is quite small although it is very attractive. It is only about 3,5 centimeters long.. Its shape is tapered (longer than it is wide). Like many other fish, has a forked tail and has a small one adipose fin between the dorsal fin and the caudal fin.
On the sides it surprises us with its very intense and iridescent blue color. When light hits it, the blue color shines clearly. The colored line starts at the eye and runs almost all the way around to create a beautiful contrast between the blue and the red and white of the rest of the body. Beneath it, it sports a ventral red line which runs approximately from the middle area to the caudal fin.
Although this fish is unique, some people easily confuse it with the cardinal tetra. Both fish share the same shades of red and blue, so this can lead to confusion. To differentiate them, you need to notice the cardinal tetra's red stripe. It starts at the mouth and reaches the caudal fin, while in neon it starts towards the middle of the body.
In the mouth of the neon fish, we find very small teeth. This is because it belongs to the same family as piranhas (Characins). The innocent appearance of this fish makes it surprising to know what its family is. Furthermore, her partially translucent body It helps camouflage itself in dark waters, and its coloration can fade if it is stressed or if the lighting is very intense.
Sexual dimorphism and life expectancy
The differences between males and females are subtle. When they mature sexually, females tend to be more corpulent and the ventral area appears more rounded due to the presence of eggs. In males, the blue stripe may appear somewhat more straight. With good care, their life expectancy It is usually located around 3 to 5 years.
Variants and types of neon fish
Selective breeding in captivity has given rise to varieties highly appreciated by enthusiasts. Without forgetting that the standard is the Paracheirodon innesi classic, there are lineages such as:
- Black diamond: a darker shade with a prominent shine; not to be confused with Black Neon (a different species).
- "Gold" neon: without red, keeps the iridescent blue line from the eye to three-quarters of the body.
- Bright white (Brilliant white): opal-white body; adapts well to planted aquariums.
- Albino: very little blue pigmentation and reddish eyes, differentiating itself from bright white.
- Diamondhead (Blue Diamond): the bluest variety, with a mark between the forehead and the dorsal fin.
- Of veil: somewhat more developed fins and a more pronounced red stripe at the end of the body.
Habitat and area of ​​distribution
The habitat of this fish is in black waters. These types of waters are soft and acidic, enriched with tannins from leaves and decaying wood. However, they can also live in clearer waters as long as the parameters remain stable and with dimmed lighting.
The distribution area is located in the amazon basin, throughout eastern Peru and Colombia. In these same countries, we find specimens in soft-water rivers, in freshwater. They do not tolerate salinity, not even in small concentrations.
Their origin is Latin American, although most are purchased in stores. They are bred en masse in South Asia for purchase and sale. It is more difficult today to find a specimen that was bred in Brazil, Peru, or Colombia. The vast majority are bred in captivity from birth. In the wild, they live shaded waterways, with roots, trunks and litter which release humic acids and give the water its characteristic tea-colored hue. The current is gentle and the substrates are dark.
Natural reference parameters
- Temperature: 20-26 °C (warm, no extremes).
- pH: around slightly acidic (ideal 6,0-6,8; wide tolerance up to 5,0-7,2 if acclimatized well).
- Hardness: baja, ideal 1-4 dGH (in breeding specimens slightly higher values ​​are tolerated, up to ~10 dGH, if the rest of the conditions are optimal).
Meals
To feed the neon fish it is not necessary to give it live food. From time to time we can give it some mosquito larva. You shouldn't give them large foods, but rather ones they can eat comfortably. You can also include other live species in their diet, such as Artemia salina or Daphnia. By consuming live food, their striking colors will remain brighter.
Neon fish are omnivores, so they can also eat small portions of vegetables. We can offer them some fresh vegetables from time to time (leafy lettuce scalded, spinach o zucchini very thin). It is advisable that they eat three times a day in small quantities, or 2-3 small shots that consume in 1-2 minutes, avoiding any leftovers.
As a base, it uses flakes or microgranules quality formulated for tropical fish. Alternate with frozen (daphnia, brine shrimp, mosquito larvae) and, if desired, freeze-dried. It provides plant fiber to prevent intestinal problems. Live or frozen food should come from reliable sources to minimize health risks.
Reproduction
When we have the specimens in the fish tank, we must choose those that we want to reproduce. It is always advisable to choose young individuals with sexual maturityThese fish will have the best reproductive capacity. It is important that if they were born in water with a high pH or in hard water may not reproduce easily, so it is advisable to acclimatize them to softer and more acidic parameters.
To choose the females well, we must choose the most voluminous and full of eggs. Spawning It can amount to a total of between 80 and 250 eggs. (occasionally more). When this occurs, it is essential remove the parents from the breeding tank To prevent them from eating the eggs, we must separate the breeders into a separate tank so that they don't interfere with the spawning process with the other fish in the aquarium.
For the eggs to survive, we must leave them without direct lightIt's advisable to have an aerator that generates a small current and to use a product to prevent the fungus from spreading (some aquarists use a few drops of methylene blue). The eggs hatch in about 24-72 hours.After a few days, the young need to be fed more so they can develop well. They start with infusoria and later on, brine shrimp nauplii or microworms. In just three months, we can add the fry to the larger aquarium with the rest of the fish.
Recommended parameters for breeding
- pH close to 6,0.
- Hardness very low (ideal 1-2 dGH).
- Temperature stable at 23-25 ​​°C.
- dim lighting and abundant moss/fine plant for laying eggs.
Neon fish care
In order for our fish to live as long as possible and to develop well, we must take into account some aspects. The first thing is the temperature and quality of the water. The temperature should be between 20 and 25 degrees to mimic their natural environment. If the temperature goes outside that range, it can be dangerous. They prefer black water or, failing that, low-light conditions with plants that provide shelter. Moderate or soft lighting helps reduce stress.
Since these fish are sensitive to light, it's best not to use bright artificial light. A noisy home can affect their nervous system and, therefore, their growth. It's important to filter the water with peat or incorporate natural elements (Indian almond leaves, alder cones) to provide tannins if you're looking for a black biotope. What's really important is that the water does not have any chlorine; use conditioner and make sure the aquarium is fully cycled.
As for coexistence, they are not aggressive fish, but they establish small hierarchies within the school. Our group de peces neon should not be less than 8-10 copies so they feel safe and display their natural behavior. In small groups, they may become shy or subdued.
The aquarium must have dimensions capable of accommodating about 60 liters of water as a minimum, for a group of 8-10. You need an empty space in the center that has no plants or decorations for swimming. We can use logs and leaves to achieve darkness and shelters on the sides.
Finally, for these specimens to feel that they have everything under control, it is important that the background is dark. In addition, this will contrast with the color of our fish and the aquarium will acquire greater beauty. Complement it with abundant planting (Cryptocoryne, Microsorum, Anubias, mosses) and a low lighting.
Water parameters and maintenance
- Temperature: 20-25 °C.
- pH: ideal 6,0-6,8 (acceptable according to origin 6,0-7,0).
- Hardness: soft, 1-4 dGH (up to ~10 dGH in farmed fish if everything else is correct).
- Filtration: efficient and stable, with low current.
- Water changes: 20-30% weekly to maintain low nitrates and stability.
Compatibility and tank mates
- In total area: Clown killifish, marble hatchetfish.
- Middle area: cardinal tetra, glowlight tetra, harlequin rasbora.
- Background: corydoras panda, corydora bandit.
- Seaweed eater: zebra otocinclus, sucker loach, rainbow goby.
- invertebrates: neocaridina shrimp y snails (with plant shelter).
Decoration, substrate and lighting
- Substratum dark (fine sand or very small gravel) to highlight its colors.
- Logs and driftwood branches that provide shelter and tannins.
- Dry leaves (Indian almond, oak) to simulate its biotope.
- Plantation dense on the sides and bottom, with clear free zones in the center.
- Dim light or filtered; too much light can stress them.
Acclimatization, cycling and routine
- Cycled: Introduce neon only into mature aquariums with stable parameters.
- Acclimatization: by drip for 30-60 minutes to avoid osmotic shock.
- Maintenance: Gently siphon the substrate, clean the filter without chlorine and alternate partial changes.
- Meals: 2-3 small servings, a variety of dry, frozen and vegetable.
Health and disease prevention
One of the most feared conditions is the so-called neon tetra disease, caused by a parasite. Its symptoms include discoloration, erratic swimming, loss of muscle mass and death. There is no reliable treatment: the most effective is prevention. Keep a excellent water quality, buy fish from reliable sources, avoid feeding live prey of dubious origin and quarantine any new inhabitants for at least 2-4 weeks. If suspected, isolate the affected fish to reduce the risk of infection.
With this information you will be able to learn more about this colorful fish. If you follow these key parameters (soft, slightly acidic water, low lighting, large school, varied diet and well-planted aquarium), you will enjoy their active behavior and unique brilliance for years, with a stable and visually spectacular community aquarium.
