At the start of summer, Galicia welcomes the spider crab season with a bittersweet atmosphere at the region's fish markets. After a long six-month closed season, the return of this prized shellfish was eagerly awaited by industry professionals, consumers, and restaurant owners alike, although the first few days have confirmed the most pessimistic predictions.
The first auctions at fish markets like O Grove and Cambados have registered exceptionally low volumes, far from what was typical in previous seasons. Between Tuesday and Wednesday, barely more than 35 kilograms were sold in O Grove, while Cambados managed to sell 35 kilos in a single day . However, prices have skyrocketed , exceeding 30 euros per kilo for the highest quality fish and reaching as high as 59 euros.
The situation is exacerbated by a downward trend in spider crab catches in recent years. In 2017, Galicia produced nearly 150 tons of this crustacean; today, the figure barely exceeds 70. This sustained decline is worrying shellfish gatherers and the commercial sector , who are approaching the season with caution and some uncertainty about the future of the resource.
Demand remains high , especially in summer, when the influx of tourists and the return of Galician emigrants significantly increases seafood consumption. Local markets, such as those in Pontevedra and Santiago, feel the pinch, although the lack of domestic product sometimes forces them to resort to imported spider crab, generally from Scotland . The difference in flavor, texture, and appearance compared to the Galician variety continues to be a topic of discussion among more discerning vendors and consumers.
The difference between Galician and imported spider crabs isn't just a matter of origin. The native variety typically has a dark color and fuzz on its shell , while imported ones are lighter and smoother. According to experts, the contrast is also noticeable inside: the meat of the local crab is usually whole , while that of the Scottish variety appears in fragments. All of this directly affects the price, with Galician crabs fetching over €35-40 per kilo and imported crabs ranging between €20 and €30.
A campaign conditioned by other seafood
This year, the arrival of velvet crabs in Galician markets coincides with the closure of the Galician spider crab season and the reopening of the octopus season , which presents contrasting figures: abundant catches and reasonable prices, in stark contrast to the scarcity and luxury of velvet crabs. The fishermen and market vendors themselves acknowledge the complicated coexistence of both resources, as octopus fishing has benefited from the long hiatus, while velvet crab fishing seems unable to recover.
Demand remains high , especially on weekends, when a slight increase in product arrivals at markets is expected. Even so, many fishmongers are forced to offer imported spider crab while awaiting domestic shipments, aware that customers prefer Galician spider crab for its quality and flavor.
For marine professionals, this situation reinforces the importance of sustainability and catch control. Many are already pointing to the need to analyze, together with scientists, whether the shortage is explained by overfishing or by the impact of climate change and rising temperatures in Galician estuaries.
The spider crab as a gastronomic emblem and tourist attraction
Beyond the port's figures, the spider crab remains a culinary icon for Galicia, especially in summer, when it takes center stage in tapas, traditional recipes, and haute cuisine. Its flavor and versatility make it indispensable on the tables of restaurants and private homes, whether boiled, grilled, fried, or used in rice dishes.
Internationally renowned chefs, such as José Andrés , have praised the quality of Galician spider crab after tasting it in iconic restaurants like D'Berto in O Grove. The "salt-baked spider crab" recipe has garnered recognition from media personalities and experts, further enhancing the reputation of Galician cuisine and award-winning establishments recognized both nationally and in international guides.
In haute cuisine and at culinary competitions, the spider crab continues to occupy a privileged place. Dishes such as the "Ondas do mar" tapa, presented in Vigo at the Galician Tapas Chefs' Competition, incorporate the spider crab as a star ingredient and demonstrate the local gastronomy's ability to innovate without sacrificing tradition.
Despite its scarcity, the Galician spider crab remains a summer delicacy and a symbol of quality in markets and kitchens. Its presence boosts both the local economy and the tourist appeal of the RÃas Baixas, maintaining high standards despite fishing difficulties.