Octopus has become one of the gastronomic and cultural emblems of Spain's coasts, especially in Galicia, where its capture and preparation are synonymous with tradition and local pride. Its presence extends far beyond the table: its fishing, marketing, and even the ways it is enjoyed evolve with the times.
In recent years, the octopus has become a central figure in popular festivals , debates about sustainability, exports, international awards, and even innovations in the pet market. Here we review the current state of the sector, the challenges and opportunities it presents, and how culture and business intertwine around this valuable cephalopod.
Octopus in Galician fish markets: recovery and control in fishing
The octopus fishing season in Galicia has seen a considerable boost since the lifting of the fishing ban, which ended on July 1st. During the first part of the season, Galician fish markets have recorded revenues exceeding €3,3 million, with a production of around 290 tons.
This increase in catches is a direct result of a biological rest period and fishing ban agreed upon by fishermen and the administration, the objective of which was to allow for the regeneration of fish populations and ensure the continuity of the resource. These measures have resulted in remarkable growth: revenues have risen by 122% compared to the previous year, with the average price per kilo reaching €11,45.
The fish markets of Ribeira, Bueu, and Vigo have been the most active, accounting for the largest volume of sales and revenue. For example, Ribeira leads with over 75.000 kilos auctioned, while Bueu and Vigo are close behind with 41.000 and 26.000 kilos respectively. All this while maintaining a focus on increased vigilance to prevent illegal fishing, which has resulted in the seizure of 2.700 kilos of octopus and prohibited equipment.
Furthermore, the Galician community continues to invest in the modernization of ports , as demonstrated by the investment in new modules and services for professionals in locations such as Sanxenxo, integrating fishing activity into tourist environments in an orderly and efficient manner.
Exports and international markets: declines and new emerging destinations
Galician octopus remains highly valued abroad, although there have been notable declines in key markets recently. Exports of frozen octopus to the United States from the province of Pontevedra, for example, have fallen by almost half compared to last year. From January to May, only 200.000 kilos were sold, compared to 434.000 the previous year.
Despite these declines, new growth markets stand out , such as the Dominican Republic, which has doubled its imports and is now a significant destination outside the traditional sphere of influence of Italy and Portugal. Even so, these two countries continue to account for more than half of the Galician octopus sector's international sales.
To compensate for the drop in local catches due to fishing bans and to maintain export volumes, Galician companies have increased their purchases of octopus from Morocco, Mauritania and Senegal , with an 8% increase compared to the previous year and prices at origin that have also risen significantly.
Sustainability: global challenges, certifications and traditional techniques
The growing demand for octopus in Europe has highlighted the importance of sustainable fisheries and environmentally friendly techniques. In Mexico's Yucatán Peninsula—one of the world's largest producers— fishery improvement projects have been launched to achieve MSC environmental certification, which guarantees responsible practices.
There, methods like drift fishing are favored , which allows for the capture of only adult specimens and the return of juveniles to the sea, contributing to the renewal of the stock. However, pressure on the species and illegal fishing threaten its future sustainability.
In Spain, some fishing guilds in Asturias have been pioneers in achieving MSC sustainability certification , employing techniques such as fishing with traps, which allow for the release of unwanted individuals and prevent the accidental capture of other species. Obtaining this certification not only recognizes their ecological efforts but has also had a positive impact on the prices paid to fishermen, ensuring the economic viability of the activity and helping to curb overfishing.
On a global scale, the challenge now lies in adapting to climate change: rising temperatures affect octopus reproduction and survival, forcing migrations northward and to deeper waters. Given this scenario, the need to increase the minimum catch size and adjust management to ensure the viability of fishing in the coming years is under debate.
The celebration of the octopus: from the Octopus Festival to the best stoves
The Carballiño Octopus Festival is one of the most important summer events in Ourense and a symbol of Galician culture . Held in August, it attracts thousands of visitors who gather to savor octopus prepared by authentic pulpeiras (octopus cooks) and enjoy recreational and musical activities.
During these days, the town offers a program full of music, gastronomy, and folk performances, solidifying its status as a Festival of Cultural Interest . This year, the festival is dedicated to the Italian town of Noventa Padovana, recently twinned with Carballiño, which also celebrates its own event centered around octopus.
The art of cooking octopus: expert advice
Galician-style octopus is an undisputed classic of traditional cuisine. To achieve the perfect texture, renowned chefs—such as Pepe Solla, the Michelin-starred Galician chef—recommend freezing the octopus for 8 to 15 days before cooking. This process helps break down the muscle fibers, resulting in tender and juicy meat after a careful cooking time of about 40 minutes.
Other chefs, such as Jorge Catalán, prefer to use large specimens and cut them with scissors before serving, following the tradition of Galician pulpeiras. The potato accompaniment and the dressing with extra virgin olive oil and paprika complete one of the most beloved dishes, whose restaurant price can currently be around 18 euros a portion.
Among the international accolades, the Asturian cannery El Viejo Pescador stands out , having been awarded at the Great Taste Awards for its recipe of octopus cooked in its own juices, based on innovation and care for the raw material, and which joins a new generation of producers who are committed to quality and sustainability.
Octopus has become a key element in the gastronomy, culture, and economy of the Spanish coast, demonstrating its importance in both traditional celebrations and culinary innovation and in the international market.